How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (2024)

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How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (1)

Photo Credit

Pixabay

Botanical Name

Fragaria spp.

Plant Type

Fruit

Sun Exposure

Full Sun

Soil pH

Slightly Acidic to Neutral

Bloom Time

Varies

Flower Color

Pink

Red

White

Hardiness Zone

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

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Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Strawberries

Catherine Boeckmann

How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (2)

You’ll never find that sweet strawberry taste as good as the one you’ve grown yourself or picked from a farm. Why? The sugar in berries converts to starch soon after they’re picked. Learn more about how to grow strawberries in your garden orcontainers.

Garden strawberries are typically much sweeter and juicier than you can find in the grocery stores. Strawberries are also perennials, so they’ll come back year after year! Plus, they will grow easily wherever there is outdoor space and in almost any climate or soil, from garden beds to pots to hangingbaskets.

Strawberry plants come in four types:

  • June-bearing strawberries bear fruit in one go, usually over a period of threeweeks.The berries tend to be larger. Despite their name, you can choose from early-, mid-, and late-season varieties. that fruit anytime from early to late summer.
  • Everbearing strawberries (also called perpetual or all-season strawberries) produce steadily throughout the summer and even into autumn. They have smaller berries and are great for making jam or freezing.
  • Day-neutral strawbrries (closely related to everbearers) also produce fruit continuously through the season. Insensitive to day length, these varieties produce buds, fruits, and runners continuously if the temperature remains between 35° and 85°F (1° to 30°C). Production is less than that of June-bearers.
  • Alpine Strawberries: In a little world of their own are the alpine and wild strawberries. These are much smaller plants that form far smaller berries, but they have an almost impossibly intense flavor – perfect for topping your morning cereal, for example! They require less attention than bigger strawberry plants and, once established, will pretty much look after themselves, making an attractive edging plant or even growing out from the cracks or walls.
    They will naturally self-seed to create a useful edible groundcover.

For the home garden, we recommend June-bearers. Although you will have to wait a year for fruit harvesting, it will be well worthit.

Summer-Fruiting / June-Bearing

Everbearing / Perpetual

Day-Neutral

Short, intense cropping period

Small flushes over longer periods

Steady production all season long

Larger berries

Medium-sized berries

Medium-sized berries

Fruits in the summer

Fruits from summer to autumn

Fruits from summer to autumn

Vigorous runner production

Fewer runners

Moderate runner production

Read Next

  • Strawberry Varieties and Growing Tips

  • Unusual Fruit and Fruit Trees to Grow

  • How to Grow Raspberries: The Complete Guide

Planting

Strawberry plants require 6 to 10 hours of direct sunlight a day, so choose a sunny spot. Otherwise, strawberries are tolerant of different soil types, although they prefer loamy soil that drains well.

To ensure a strong start, add a few buckets of well-rotted manure before planting; you could also use garden compost. If you have clay soil, generally mix in 4 inches or more of compost and rake the clay soil into raised mounds to further improve drainage. If your soil is sandy, simply cultivate lightly to remove weeds and mix in a 1-inch layer of rich compost or rottedmanure.

Soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7. If necessary, amend your soil before planting.If soils in your area are naturally alkaline, it is best to grow strawberries in half-barrels or other large containers filled with compost-enriched potting soil. Raised beds are a particularly good option for strawberryplants.

Practice crop rotation for the most success. Unless you plan to amend your soil each year, do not plant in a site that recently had tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant.

Also, note that strawberries and garlic are good planting companions if you wish to interplant. Garlic helps deter pests like spidermites.

When to PlantStrawberries

  • Plan to plant when the ground can be worked in the spring. See your local frost dates.
  • Establish new plants each year to keep berry quality high each season. Strawberry plants will produce runners (daughter plants) that will root and grow into new strawberryplants.
  • Buy disease-resistant plants from a reputable nursery, of a variety that is recommended in your area. You can consult with the nursery you buy them from or with your state Cooperative Extension servicefor locally recommendedvarieties.
  • You can buy strawberries in pots, but also you can sometimes find bare-root strawberries or runners, which offer really excellent value for money. They look fairly shocking, without any leaves and rather scraggly, but don’t let that put you off. Once they hit the soil, they’ll be wellaway!

How to PlantStrawberries

  • Provide adequate space for sprawling. Allow for spacing of around 18inches (1-1/2 feet) to leave room for runners and leave 4 feet between rows.Strawberries are sprawling plants. Seedlings will send out runners, which in turn will send out their own runners. (Container strawberries can be planted closertogether.)
  • Make planting holes deep and wide enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending it. However, don’t plant too deep! The roots should be covered, but the crown should be right at the soil surface. It is very important that youdo NOT bury the crown (central growing bud) of the plant, or it could rot.The leaves, flowers, and fruit must be exposed to light and freshair.
  • To settle their roots into the soil, water plants well at the time ofplanting.
  • Use a mulch of the strawberry’s namesake –straw!
  • It is also possible to grow strawberries from last year’s runners. See this video to find out how.

Planting Strawberries inContainers

Potted strawberries are easy to get right. They go in at the same depth as the potting mix in the container, but for bare-rooted plants, make sure you don’t go too deep or too shallow. If too deep, the plant may struggle and could potentially rot away. If too shallow, it will rock about and dry out really easily, creating a weak and brittle plant. You want the crown of the plant where the stems of the leaves emerge to be ever so slightly proud of the soil surface. Learn more about growing strawberries in pots.

Watch this video to see how to plant strawberries in garden beds orcontainers.

Growing

How toGrowStrawberries

  • The big tip with strawberries is to keep them well watered while they are establishing their roots and during dry weather. Moisture is incredibly important due to its shallow roots. Water adequately, about one inch per square foot per week. Strawberry plantsneed a lot of water when the runners and flowers are developing and again in the late summer when the plants are fully mature and gearing up for winterdormancy.
  • Keep strawberry beds mulched to reduce water needs and weed invasion. Any type of mulch—from black plastic to pine straw to shredded leaves—will keep the soil moist and the plants clean. Read more about mulching.
  • Be diligent about weeding—weed by hand, especially in the first months afterplanting.
  • Once strawberries start to flower, fertilize with a high-potassium, liquid tomato feed to encourage good fruit production. Plants also benefit from the addition of an organic, general-purpose fertilizer early in spring, as they set into growth, to help power things up for the newseason.
  • In the first year, pick off blossoms to discourage strawberry plants from fruiting. If not allowed to bear fruit, they will spend their food reserves on developing healthy roots instead, which is a good thing. The yields will be much greater in the secondyear.
  • Eliminate runner plants as needed. First and second generations produce higher yields. Try to keep daughter plants spaced about 10 inchesapart.
  • Row covers are a good option for protecting blossoms and fruit frombirds.
How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (4)

Winter Care ofStrawberries

Strawberry plants are perennial. They are naturally cold-hardy and will survive mildly freezing temperatures. So, if your area has mild winters, little care isneeded.

In regions where the temperature regularly drops into the low twenties (Fahrenheit), strawberries will be in their dormant stage. It’s best to provide some winterprotection:

  • When the growing season is over, mow or cut foliage down to one inch. This can be done after the first couple of frosts or when air temps reach 20°F(-6°C).
  • Mulch plants about 4 inches deep with straw, pine needles, or other organicmaterial.
  • In evencolder regions, more insulating mulch should beadded.
  • Natural precipitation should appropriately maintain sufficient soilmoisture.
  • Remove mulch in early spring after the danger of frost haspassed.

PropagatingStrawberries

Strawberries produce long, wiry stems called runners with little plantlets along them. You can use these to grow more strawberries by just pinning the plantlets down to root and then severing them from the mother plant once they have. See our article for details on how to grow more strawberries!

Recommended Varieties

Try planting more than one variety. Each will respond differently to conditions, and you will have various fruits toenjoy.

  • ‘Northeaster’ is best suited for the northeastern US and southeastern Canada. Fruit has strong flavor andaroma.
  • ‘Sable’ is hardy to zone 3, early season, greatflavor.
  • ‘Primetime’ is a mild-flavored, disease-resistant variety, best adapted to theMid-Atlantic.
  • ‘Cardinal’ is a good variety to try in theSouth.
  • ‘Camarosa’ is a good variety to try on the WestCoast.
  • ‘Tristar’ is a day-neutral variety that’s very well-suited forhangingbaskets.

Learn more about choosing and growing differentstrawberry varieties.

Harvesting

How to HarvestStrawberries

  • When you grow you own, you can peak at the peak of ripeness. No more white strawberries! Harvest only fully red (ripe) berries, and pick every threedays.
  • Fruit is typically ready for harvesting 4 to 6 weeks afterblossoming.
  • Ideally, pick fruits in the warmth of the afternoon for maximumflavor.
  • Cut by the stem; do not pull the berry, or you could damage theplant.
  • For June-bearerstrawberries, the harvest will last up to 3 weeks. You should have an abundance of berries, depending on thevariety.

How to StoreStrawberries

  • Store unwashed berries in the refrigerator for 3 to 5days.
  • Strawberries can be frozen whole for about 2months.
  • Dehydrate them or turn them into delicious jams. Watch our video on How to Make Strawberry Preserves!
How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (5)

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Wit and Wisdom

Why Are Strawberries CalledStrawberries?

One theory is that woodland pickers strung them on pieces of straw to carry them to market. Others believe that the surface of the fruit looks as if it’s embedded with bits of straw. Others think that the name comes from the Old English word meaning “to strew,” because the plant’s runners stray in all directions and look as if they are strewn on theground.

The June full Moon is called the Strawberry Moon because when this Moon appeared,it signaled that it was time to start gathering ripeningfruit.

Pests/Diseases

  • GrayMold
  • PowderyMildew
  • JapaneseBeetles
  • SpiderMites
  • Slugs

Pest-BeatingTips

  • Watch out for birds! Netting is one option to physically keep them off developing fruits; make sure it’s in place before the fruits start to swell andcolor-up.
  • The other pest to watch out for is slugs. Set up slug traps among your plants or, for more organic slug-control tips, or use beer traps. Spread sand over the strawberry bed to deter slugs. (This also works well for lettuce.) Pine needles also foil slug and pill-bugdamage.
  • For bigger bugs such as Japanese beetles, spray your plants with puréed garlic and neem seedoil.
  • The other thing to watch out for is frost early on in the season, when plants are flowering. Strawberries are super-hardy, but if a frost gets at the flowers, they’ll turn to a blackened mush and won’t be viable. So, cover flowering plants with row covers or cloches should a frosty nightthreaten.

Recipes

Prizewinning Strawberry Jam for Canning

Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie

Spinach-Strawberry Salad

Strawberry Crepes

Strawberry Lemonade

Fruit

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana. Read More from Catherine Boeckmann

How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (7)

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Comments

Add a Comment

Hi I have a question. For 2 years I had nice strawberries plants in a raised bed, I never cut them back . We put straw over the beds for the winter. Well, we took the straws off and I don't have any plants. It look like something went under the hay( straw) ate the greens off it all. I hope the roots are still there. There is no hole in the ground. Can you tell me what happened? There are no greens or dead leaves either; they're gone and eaten off. I just see soil.

  • Reply

Hi Frank, Sorry to hear about your strawberry crop. That must have been a disappointing discovery. While most of the pests that harm strawberry plants are insects, they would not have eaten the plants down to the soil. You certainly had some hungry (and stealth) critters around your property that took an extreme liking to your strawberry plants. Whether your crowns remain in tact for future growth or you plant new strawberries for next year, it might be a good idea to put up some sort of fencing or barrier around your raised beds as adeterrent.

While this does not sound like the case with your strawberries, since you said that you never cut back your strawberries, this is a good opportunity to mention that after harvesting your crop, it is best to cut back the foliage to 1-inch above the ground. This helps to remove older leaves that could be infected with diseases and control insects by removing their food source and potential breedingsites.

  • Reply

It is funny that altho I have a compulsion to put things in rows and keep everything to a minimum, I don't plant that way. Why? Because nature doesn't plant that way. I have waist high planters and 16 inch pots that hold everything. My strawberries had the last three months in shade because I hadn't gotten the lay of the land in my front yard. They will probably be sent to the back deck soon as the old tree in the front has decided to spread more this year. They are crowded, no mulch, and producing like they are very happy. I don't keep the runners cause they are not as vigorous as the mother plants and over time will revert to the original berry species. But they do look pretty hanging over the side of the pot. It's funny how all the sites say the same thing, I have never paid attention and currently have enough strawberries to make a pie with rhubarb I found at the local market... these are day neutral...good times

  • Reply

i grow hydroponically everything from tomatoes to lettuce in perlite with nutrients can you grow strawberry's
in perlite

  • Reply

Can I grow the runners indoors once I've cut them off? If so, how? Hydroponics or planted? They don't have time to establish roots outdoors and I hate to waste the 20 baby plants. ALL have large nodes for roots.

  • Reply

Yes you can plant runners indoors in in pots until you can put them outside. Depending on your type of plant, it may continue to bloom and grow berries. I had a new deck built, strawberries were growing around support posts and had to be removed during construction. I removed and potted all. Put a baby runner in a single pot and the remaining bunch of plants in a huge pot. All are indoor since construction continued into December. I'm hoping all survive through winter till spring so I can transplant. Good luck with your strawberries. I bought a really hardy everberring plant. It's continuing to ripen fruit in front of patio door. I'm amazed that the original plant and the dozen of runner plants did so well.

  • Reply

My strawberry bed is over ten years old,
old plants are replaced by new runners and produce nice size fruit,
however two years ago I started noticing new strawberry plants but they're like wild ones.
They have tiny little berries and have spread all over.
I've tried pulling out those runners but can't get them all.
I'm afraid they will choke out my real plants.
How do I rid my garden of these wild ones?

  • Reply

Mulch with sand n compost covering the undesirable plants and leaving the others to thrive.

  • Reply

This is no easy task. Herbicides are frequently mentioned in general searches but you don’t want to use that, esp near edibles. Vinegar is cited but it may only slow ttop growth—and may affect you good berries too. Hand removal is by hand, and this is best done when soon after a rain or when the ground iswet.

  • Reply

Strawberries are healthy ~ many benefits~ Strawberries have antioxidants; vitamins; fiber; pectin; + minerals~

  • Reply
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How to Grow Strawberry Plants: The Complete Guide (2024)

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